"Evaluation of femtosecond laser pulse irradiation of ancient parchment" by Walczak et al (2008)

Walczak, M.; Oujja, M.; Crespo-Arcá, L.; García, A.; Méndez, C.; Moreno, P.; Domingo, C.; Castillejo, M.; "Evaluation of femtosecond laser pulse irradiation of ancient parchment", Applied Surface Science 255 (5) Part 2 (2008) 3179-3183

doi:10.1016/j.apsusc.2008.09.011 (restricted access)

Abstract:

In this work, femtosecond (fs) laser irradiation of ancient parchment is evaluated as a novel cleaning technique that, in comparison with nanosecond (ns) irradiation, could considerably reduce the thermal and chemical damage to the substrate. To investigate the interaction of ultrashort laser pulses with parchment, two historical specimens were exposed to Ti:Sapphire laser using the fundamental and second harmonic emission (795 and 398 nm, 120 fs pulses). The ablation threshold fluences were determined resulting in values of 1.1 and 0.15 J/cm² at 795 and 398 nm respectively. A study of the effects of the fs laser–parchment interaction as a function of fluence and wavelength was carried out and the results were compared with those obtained for Nd:YAG laser irradiation (532 and 355 nm, pulse duration 6 ns). FT-Raman spectra show the disappearance of the amorphous carbon bands upon fs treatment, indicative of the removal of the carbonaceous contamination of the parchment. At the same time the parchment structural bands remain unaffected. Spectrofluorimetric measurements reveal an enhancement of photodegradation products in the substrate. Results are discussed in terms of the comparison between expected mechanisms operating in the fs and ns irradiation regimes.

The shoe industry by Allen (1916?)

Allen, F. J.; The shoe industry, The vocation bureau of Boston, 1916(?)
URL (Internet Archive)

Table of contents:
Preface
I. Historical sketch
II. Shoe machinery
III. Last-making
IV. Pattern-making
V. Leather
VI. The department of shoe manufacture
VII. Methods in shoe manufacture
VIII. The upper leather department
IX. The stitching department
X. The sole leather department
XI. The making department
XII. Finishing, treeing, packing and shipping
XIII. Employment conditions and supplementary material
XIV. Explanation of the terms used in shoemaking
XV. Shoe and leather bibliography

Poulaine, c. 1300-1450, The MET Museum of Art

"Shoe (29.158.914)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/ho/07/euwb/ho_29.158.914.htm (October 2006)

The book of the feet: a history of boots and shoes by Hall (1847)

Hall, J. S.; The book of the feet: a history of boots and shoes, William Graham, New York (1847)
URL (Google Books)

Essai sur l'histoire du parchemin et du vélin par Peignot (1812)

Peignot, Gabriel; Essai sur l'histoire du parchemin et du vélin, Paris (1812)
URL (Internet Archive)

"The chemical degradation of leather" by Larsen (2008)

Larsen, R.; " The chemical degradation of leather", CHIMIA International Journal for Chemistry 62 (11) (2008) 899-902

DOI: 10.2533/chimia.2008.899 (restricted access)

Abstract:

The chemical deterioration of vegetable tanned leather is caused by acid hydrolysis and oxidation due to environmental deteriorative factors like air pollutants, heat and light. In addition, the type of tannin material influences the rate of deterioration. The degree of deterioration can be measured by the fall in the shrinkage temperature (Ts) of the leather. New analysis of data shows that, although environmental factors have a generally larger influence on the deterioration, the average degree of oxidation is greater in older leathers and it significantly influences the Ts in these materials. Moreover, it is also shown that acid pollution is indicated in the relation between pH and the sulphate content measured in the leathers although ammonia is released by oxidation of amino acids and may influence the pH value in acid-damaged leathers.

Ramsden Shagreen Opera Monocular, c. 1770, College of Optical Sciences, University of Arizona

Description:
This monocular has a short round parallel cardboard barrel, covered with shagreen. The objective is contained in a brass cell and is a single non-achromatic lens (possibly a replacement). It has one cardboard draw, covered in red leather with tooled on silver-colored floral designs. The single eye lens, which is cracked, is mounted in a flared eyecup made of a material which could be ivory painted or colored black. The two black rings at either end of the barrel are made of this same material. It is signed "RAMSDEN LONDON" on the draw, with the eyecup to the right. It comes with a red leather-covered cardboard or wood case.

"... piel en la indumentaria (Murcia, ss.XIII-XV)" por Martínez Martínez (2002)

Martínez Martínez, M.; "Oficios, artesanía y usos de la piel en la indumentaria (Murcia, ss. XIII-XV)", Historia, instituciones, documentos 29 (2002) 237-274
PDF

Resumen:
Análisis del trabajo de la piel y del cuero cola Murcia bajomedieval, que trata: La organización del espacio urbano y periurbano para dichas actividades, además de la identidad de los artesanos; la evolución y desarrollo corporativos de los oficios de la industria del cuero y sus efectos sociales y medioambientales; y, finalmente, los usos de la piel y el cuero en la indumentaria, representativa de estructura social.

Abstract:
Analysis of the use of skins and leather in late medieval Murcia, dealing with the following: the organisation of urban and suburban areas for such activities, in addition the identity of the craftsmen; the corporate evolution and development of trades in the leather industry and their social and environmental effects; finally, the use of skins and leather in clothing, as representative of social structure.

"Restoring leather castors" by Barrington

Michael Barrington, "Restoring leather castors"
http://www.bafra.org.uk/html_pages/articles_casters.html

From the text:
The origin of the castor goes back to certainly the early 16th century when, 'baby cages' and invalid chairs are known to have been equipped with wheels. They were used in England certainly towards the end of 17th Century and by 1690 there was an established castor-making trade in London. Castors, to begin with, were simple hardwood wheels mounted on horizontal axles but by 1700 vertical spindles mounting jaws in which horizontal axles and wheels were carried were in use. The wheels were of wood, probably boxwood which, by the 1730s, tended to be replaced by leather wheels and then brass wheels.

Cuir bouilli case, c.1450–1500, MET Museum of Art

"Case (Etui) with an amorous inscription [Italy] (50.53.1)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/nupt/ho_50.53.1.htm

Des ouvriers au travail à la chamoiserie Boinot, en 1920

"Des ouvriers au travail à la chamoiserie Boinot, en 1920: L' album Photos", Le patrimoine industriel de Poitou-Charentes [en ligne], Région Poitou-Charentes - Inventaire du patrimoine culturel, 2007
URL

Sommaire:

• La préparation des peaux
• Le chamoisage
• La fabrication des gants

Cette publication en ligne a été conçue et réalisée par le Service de l'inventaire de la Région Poitou-Charentes, à partir de l'enquête sur le patrimoine industriel de Poitou-Charentes menée, de 1986 à 1993, par Wulf van Riesen et Jean-Pierre Azéma et, de 1994 à 2004, par Pascale Moisdon-Pouvreau, avec le concours de Jacqueline Debelle, Judith Guéret, Aurélie Liège, Olivia Pelletier, Charlotte Pon, Geneviève Renaud.

Gloves and the glove trade by Ellis (1921)

Ellis, B. E.; Gloves and the glove trade, Pitman & Sons, London (1921)
URL (Internet Archive)

Table of contents:

1.The antiquity of the glove

2.The glove as a symbol

3.The glove in the realm of fashion

4.Leather gloves, skins and their origin

5.Skin-dressing and treatment

6.Dyeing and dressing the leather

7.Glove cutting

8.Sewing and finishing leather gloves

9.Fabric gloves, origin of the industry

10.Making fabric gloves

11.Marketing

12.Distribution of the industry

13.British glove trade organisations

14.Glossary

Leather processing, 19th century print

"Issues in the preservation of manually tanned skin materials" by Klokkernes (2008)

Torunn Klokkernes, "Issues in the preservation of manually tanned skin materials", CeROArt 2 (2008), [En ligne], mis en ligne le 17 octobre 2008.

URL : http://ceroart.revues.org/index501.html.

Abstract:

The field of conservation relates to material science and technology as a fundamental aspect to understand artefacts’ material properties and deterioration. The research performed in this study is an initial approach to the understanding of the complex nature of manually tanned skin materials manufactured by individual tradition bearers from indigenous cultures in the circumpolar area; it instigates a series of research topics which can be further addressed. Contextual interpretation comprises traditional knowledge and practices as well as the empirical information obtained through investigative and analytical methods. This requires collaboration between several areas of knowledge, and raises questions with regard to the interpretation of analytical results in the investigation of these material groups.

Resumé:
La conservation use de l’analyse matérielle et des technologies pour mieux comprendre les propriétés des artefacts et leurs mécanismes de dégradation. La présente recherche constitue une approche de la nature complexe des cuirs tannés au sein des cultures indigènes de la région circumpolaire. Elle suscite par ailleurs de nouveaux thèmes de recherches connexes. L’interprétation contextuelle, de son côté, englobe la connaissance des pratiques ainsi que les informations obtenues par des méthodes d’investigation analytique et exige la collaboration entre divers secteurs et disciplines.

"Lindow man, Tollund man and other peat bog bodies" by Painter (1991)

Painter, T. J.; "Lindow man, tollund man and other peat-bog bodies: the preservative and antimicrobial action of Sphagnan, a reactive glycuronoglycan with tanning and sequestering properties", Carbohydrate Polymers 15 (2) (1991) 123-142
doi:10.1016/0144-8617(91)90028-B (restricted access)

Abstract:

The tanning reaction that contributes to the preservation of animal tissues by peat consists of a Maillard reaction between the free amino-groups of collagen and reactive carbonyl groups in a soluble glycuronoglycan (‘sphagnan’) containing residues of D-lyxo-5-hexosulopyranuronic acid. Sphagnan is a complex, pectin-like material which is covalently linked to cellulosic and amyloid-like chains in living Sphagnum moss, but slowly liberated by autohydrolysis into the ambient water as the dead moss is converted into peat. It is a precursor of aquatic humus from Sphagnum peat, and the tanning of adventitious collagen in animal remains is only one manifestation of the continuous incorporation of ammonia, aminoacids and polypeptides from a wide variety of sources into the structure of the humic acid molecule. Sphagnan can also suppress microbial activity by reacting with exo-enzymes and sequestering essential, multivalent metal cations.

Bog bodies of the Iron Age by Susan K. Lewis, NOVA-PBS (2006)

More than a thousand preserved bodies and skeletons have emerged from the peat bogs of Northwest Europe, and scientists now have the tools to study the remains in such detail that they can, in a sense, resurrect ancient people. Drawing on the work of Dutch bog-body scholar Wijnand van der Sanden, the following map charts more than 80 important finds and includes profiles of some of the most fascinating.

"Dating bog bodies by means of 14C-AMS" by van der Plicht et al (2004)

van der Plicht, J.; van der Sanden, W. A. B.; Aerts, A. T.; Streurman, H. J.; "Dating bog bodies by means of ¹⁴C-AMS", Journal of Archaeological Science 31(4) (2004) 471-491

doi:10.1016/j.jas.2003.09.012 (restricted access)

Abstract:

We have made efforts to date a substantial number of bodies from northwest European peat bogs by means of ¹⁴C. In our research, we compared materials such as skin, hair, bone, textile, leather and wood where available. Most of the bodies we investigated were found to date from the Late Iron Age/Roman period (c. 2nd century BC–4th century AD). Our data set shows that bog bodies in general can indeed be successfully dated by means of ¹⁴C analysis. Our results contradict comments in the literature (e.g. C.S. Briggs, Did they fall or were they pushed? Some unresolved questions about bog bodies, in: R.C. Turner, R.G. Scaife (Eds.), Bog Bodies—New Discoveries and New Perspectives, British Museum Press, London, 1995, pp. 168–182) to the effect that ‘peat bogs can age corpses so as to distort completely the usefulness of Radiocarbon’.

Bourrelier d'après l'Encyclopédie de Diderot et d'Alembert

BOURRELIER, s. m. ouvriers qui font les harnois de chevaux de carrosse, de charrette ; ils sont de la communauté des Selliers. Ils ont été nommés bourreliers, du collier des chevaux, qu’on appelloit autrefois bourrelet.

Deutsch: Riemenmacher, Sattelmacher.
English: Harness maker, saddler.
Español: Guarnicionero, talabartero.
Français: Bourrelier.
Italiano: Sellaio (?).
Português: Correeiro.

Histoire de la chaussure par Lacroix (Bibliophile Jacob) (1862)

Lacroix, P.; Duchesne, A.; Seré, F.; Histoire de la chaussure depuis l'antiquité la plus reculée jusq'à nos jours: suivie de l'histoire sérieuse et drolatique des cordonniers, Delahays Libraire-Éditeur, Paris (1862)

URL (Google Books)

"La contribution de l'archéobiologie à l'étude de l'artisanat romain" par Deschler-Erb (2005)

Deschler-Erb, S.; "La contribution de l'archéobiologie à l'étude de l'artisanat romain", in Michel Polfer (éd.), Artisanat et économie romaine: Italie et provinces occidentales de l'Empire. Actes du 3ème colloque international d'Erpeldange (Luxembourg) sur l'artisanat romain , 14-16 Octobre 2004, Monographies instrumentum 32, Montagnac (2005) 31-38
PDF

Introdution:
L’archéologie romaine regroupe différentes disciplines «classiques» comme la céramologie, la numismatique ou l’architecture. L’archéobiologie, qui, en l’absence de sources littéraires, a été introduite dès le 19ème siècle pour l’étude des périodes préhistoriques, commence seulement à être intégrée à l’archéologie romaine comme une discipline à part entière. Le but de cet exposé est de montrer le potentiel du travail interdisciplinaire pour l’étude de l’artisanat romain.

L’archéobiologie regroupe deux disciplines : l’archéozoologie et l’archéobotanique. Aujourd’hui encore, il y a relativement beaucoup d’archéologues qui pensent que ces deux disciplines ne donnent que des informations sur la nourriture. Cette vision est très réductrice. En réalité, l’archéozoologie nous donne des informations très variées sur l’importance des animaux pour les sociétés anciennes, que ce soit comme puissance de travail, comme animal de compagnie, comme fournisseur de matières premières ou encore comme valeur symbolique. Dans les sociétés préindustrielles, l’animal jouait donc un rôle multiple. Fournir de la nourriture n’était qu’un seul de ces rôles. Il en va de même pour l’archéobotanique : les plantes peuvent être employées aussi bien comme remèdes que comme combustible. Elles avaient également une valeur symbolique. On utilisait le bois dans la construction des maisons et pour fabriquer différents objets. Les plantes permettaient encore de confectionner des textiles. Bref, l’archéobiologie s’occupe de toutes les matières organiques. Elle enrichit notre connaissance de la vie quotidienne antique en nous donnant des informations multiples, complémentaires des méthodes «classiques».

Prenons par exemple la tannerie, un artisanat organique typique.