Showing posts with label Ofícios / Trades and crafts. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ofícios / Trades and crafts. Show all posts

28/11/2016

Vue intérieure de la tannerie Raillard et Schaefer, Mulhouse, France (1900)

                                          URL (Gallica)

26/02/2016

“The Chester leather industry, 1558-1625” by Woodward (1967)

Woodward, D. M., “The Chester leather industry, 1558-1625”, Transactions of the Historical Society of Lancashire and Cheshire 119 (1967) pp. 65–111.
PDF (The Historic Society of Lancashire & Cheshire)

25/02/2016

La dorure sur cuir: reliure, ciselure et gaufrure en Allemagne par Stockbauer et Maul (1888)

Stockbauer, Jacob; Maul, Johannes; La dorure sur cuir: reliure, ciselure et gaufrure en Allemagne, 2 vol., Paris, B. Rouveyre (1888).
URL (Gallica)

03/01/2016

"Curtimento de peles" por Leite (1912)


Leite, Manuel da Silva; "Curtimento de peles", Ilustração Portuguesa 350 (1912) 601-604.
PDF (Hemeroteca Digital de Lisboa)

20/12/2015

Classification of finishing tools in Greek bookbinding by Sarris (2010)

Sarris, Nikolas; Classification of finishing tools in Greek bookbinding: establishing links from the Library of St Catherine's Monastery, Sinai, Egypt. PhD thesis, University of the Arts London (2010).
URL (UAL Repository)

Abstract:
The thesis examines the decoration of Greek bookbinding, through the study of the leather-covered bindings from the monastery of Saint Catherine in Sinai, Egypt.
The manuscript collection is remarkable for the variety of binding styles that represent mainly Greek but also other bookbinding traditions, including Georgian. Syrian and Eastern European. The examination of the decorative motifs tooled on the leather covered bindings aims to identify the style and characteristics of bookbinding at the monastery. Moreover, links between and evidence for specific bindings and the manuscripts they contain are established by grouping them and relating them to specific binders and bookbinding workshops. The workshops of the monastery are examined in parallel with groups of bindings that were imported into the monastery. The extent to which the trade in books and the circulation of binding techniques between the monastery and the west was a reflection of the relations of the monastery with its dependencies is also explored.
Rubbings of the approximately 5500 tool impressions on the 1195 decorated bindings have provided the core research material. They have been identified, classified and organized into a descriptive electronic database. Imaging techniques have been developed to compare the scanned impressions, which permitted the identification of impressions of the same finishing tools. Based on the identity of their decorative tools and on the process of comparison of their structural features, a number of the bindings have been ascribed to a total of 70 specific workshops, whose dates and origins are explored. 16 of these workshops - nine from the monastery of St Catherine and seven from elsewhere, which produced bindings imported to the monastery, are discussed analytically. In addition to that, 40 original bookbinding finishing tools were discovered at the monastery during this research, which have provided invaluable material for our understanding of the tooling methods and particularities of decorated book covers at the monastery.
The largest corpus of finishing tools used on Greek bindings to date has been compiled to provide a reference tool which will aid future research on Greek bookbinding.

12/12/2015

Toward the standardization of use-wear studies: constructing an analogue to prehistoric hide work by Wiederhold (2004)

Wiederhold, James Edward; Toward the standardization of use-wear studies: constructing an analogue to prehistoric hide work. Master's thesis in Anthropology, Texas A&M University (2004).
URL (OAKTrust)

Abstract:
This thesis is a use-wear study that deals with microwear on stone endscrapers used on one worked material: animal skins. The first part of the study defines and describes the process of rendering freshly skinned pelts into functional leather or rawhide products, addressing confusing terminology found in the literature as well. Problems with past use-wear experiments dealing with animal skins are also confronted and explained. The second part of the study examines endscrapers used to flesh and dehair bison hides and compares the use-wear traces left on the tool edge by each activity. This suite of characteristics is then compared to those found on an assemblage of Clovis-age scrapers from the Gault site in central Texas.

18/09/2015

“Trois centres de ganterie : Millau, Niort, Saint-Junien" par Meynier (1934)

 Meynier, A., “Trois centres de ganterie : Millau, Niort, Saint-Junien”, Annales de Géographie 43(246) (1934) 648–652.
Doi: 10.3406/geo.1934.10752 (Persée)

11/09/2015

Les animaux à fourrures par Kretzschmar (1923)

Kretzschmar, Charles, Les animaux à fourrures: ornée dans le texte et hors texte de 105 gravures et dessins de coupes en photogravure et en phototypie et comprenant la description des animaux et de leur pelage, la valeur et l'emploi des pelleteries, l'apprêt des peaux à fourrures, le travail du pelletier, le travail du fourreur (2e édition, revue et augmentée), Chalon-sur-Saône, Édition Ch. Kretzschmar et G. Bosselet (1923).
URL (Gallica)

02/01/2015

Skin Clothing from the North, edited by Schmidt & Pedersen (2010)


Anne Lisbeth Schmidt and Karen Brynjolf Pedersen (ed.); Skin Clothing from the North, Abstracts from the seminar held at the National Museum of Denmark, November 26-27, 2009, Copenhagen, National Museum of Denmark (2010)

A brief description about the "Skin Clothing from the North" Project (2009-2012) can be read here.

23/11/2014

La fabrication et le commerce des cuirs et des peaux par Vincent (1872)

Vincent, Charles; La fabrication et le commerce des cuirs et des peaux, Paris, Bureaux au Journal la Halle aux cuirs (1872).
URL (Gallica)

03/10/2014

“Pieles, zapateros, curtidurías...del Reino de Valencia (ss. XIV-XV)" per Aparici Martí (2012)

Aparici Martí, Joaquín, “Pieles, zapateros, curtidurías. El trabajo del cuero en la zona septentrional del Reino de Valencia (ss. XIV-XV)”, Millars: espai i història 35 (2012) pp. 49–68.
URL / PDF (Raco)

Resum:
Hemos tratado de reunir en este trabajo las referencias bibliográficas y los datos archivísticos dispersos existentes sobre la producción de cueros de los siglos XIV a XV en una geografía determinada como es el norte del Reino de Valencia, adjuntándose un mapa para una rápida visualización de los resultados obtenidos.

13/09/2013

Die Lederwaren-Industrie in Offenbach am Main und Umgebung von Hager (1905)

Hager, Ludwig; Die Lederwaren-Industrie in Offenbach am Main und Umgebung, Dissertation zur Erlangung der akademischen Doktorwürde einer Hohen Philosophischen Fakultät der Ruprecht-Karls-Universität, Heidelberg (1905)
URL (InternetArchive)

03/08/2013

"La concia pastorale sannito-romana" di Maio (2009)

Maio, Mimma di; "La concia pastorale sannito-romana", in Soto l'ala di Clio, Solofra (2009) 137-146

La concia solofrana
http://www.solofrastorica.it/conciasolofrana.htm

22/06/2013

"Achega ao gremio de curtidores e zapateiros de Pontedeume nos séculos XVII-XVIII” por Costas Fernández e Macedo Cordal (2008)

Costas Fernández, Lucía; Macedo Cordal, Carola; “Achega ao gremio de curtidores e zapateiros de Pontedeume nos séculos XVII-XVIII”, Cátedra: revista eumesa de estudios 15 (2008) 289–380
PDF

24/03/2013

History and antiquities of the worshipful company of leathersellers, of the city of London by Black (1871)

Black, William Henry; History and antiquities of the worshipful company of leathersellers, of the city of London, Edward J. Francis, London (1871)
URL (Google Books)


The Leathersellers' Company Website
http://www.leathersellers.co.uk/
 
and a recent and concise publication about the Company:
The Leathersellers' Company: a short history of the company
PDF

15/02/2013

The boot and shoe trades in London and Paris in the long eighteenth century by Riello (2002)

Riello, Giorgio; The boot and shoe trades in London and Paris in the long eighteenth century, Doctoral thesis, University of London (2002)

Abstract:
This thesis examines the evolution of pre-industrial shoemaking in London and Paris between the 1680s and the 1850s, treating this period as a whole. The relevance of these two cities is based on the international role they played in the clothing sector. Both cities not only dominated national manufacturing, but were able to influence the standard of production and European fashion. My research aims to construct a comparison of the two productive centres leading to a contrasting study of pre-conditions, strategies and influences in shoemaking. The starting point is a broad view of the 'regulative framework' of the sector: the importance of the raw material market (leather and textiles) and the role of guilds, their organisation and their control of the market. A chapter dedicated to consumption explores the relationship between the London shoe market and the influence of Parisian fashion. The interest in consumption is motivated also by the debate on what economic and social historians consider to be 'mass production' as the other face of 'mass consumption'. A chapter dedicated to retailing tries to link consumption to production. My research is then focused on a study of the organisation of production in the two cities. Different typologies of producers are related to different consumer choices showing how new consumer practices and retailing facilities re-shaped production. Finally the link between fashion changes and marketing techniques (for instance the use of sizes, brands or the distinction between right and left shoes) is a fruitful field of comparative research. The last two chapters of the thesis focus on the first half of the nineteenth century. Particular attention is dedicated to the importation into England of large quantities of women's shoes from France. The crisis that the London sector faced after 1815 explains a series of changes in the market and in the role played by the British metropolis in directing the sector. Very different appears to be the Parisian case, where provincial producers flourished only after the mechanisation of the sector. By the 1850s mechanisation meant the beginning of a new phase in the trade.

08/02/2013

El gremio cordobés de guadamecileros y su producción durante los siglos XVI y XVII por Alors Bersabé (2012)

Alors Bersabé, Teresa Mª;  El gremio cordobés de guadamecileros y su producción durante los siglos XVI y XVII, Tesis doctoral en Patrimonio, Departamento de Historia del Arte, Arqueología y Música, Universidade de Córdoba (2012)
URL / PDF

28/12/2012

"The Tanners of Wrotham Manor 1400-1600" by Semple (2006)

Semple, Jayne; “The Tanners of Wrotham Manor 1400-1600”, Archaeologia Cantiana 126 (2006) 1-25
URL

Abstract:
This paper describes the trade of tanning and the lives of the tanners in the manor of Wrotham in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. The manor stretched from the North Downs along the valley of the river Bourne into the Weald and was divided into six boroughs. Tanning took place in four of them; Nepicar, Winfield, Hale and Roughway.