The new website of the Museum of Leather Craft, Northampton (UK)

The Museum of Leather Craft (IMOLC), Northampton (UK)
http://www.imolc.com/

“Red stains on archaeological leather..." by Koochakzaei & Achachluei (2015)

Koochakzaei, Alireza; Achachluei, Mohsen Mohammadi; “Red stains on archaeological leather: degradation characteristics of a shoe from the 11th–13th centuries (Seljuk period, Iran)”, Journal of the American Institute for Conservation 54(1) (2015) 45–56.

DOI: 10.1179/1945233014Y.0000000033 (Maney Online, restricted access)

Abstract:

In 2006 several valuable leather objects were found during archaeological excavation of Ghalee-Kooh-i Ghaen (a historic stronghold from the Seljuk period, 11th–13th centuries) in the South Khorasan province of Iran. When examined after 5 years, there were red stains on the remnants of a shoe with poor strength and powdery surface similar to red rot decay. Since red rot is more common in manufactured leathers from the mid-19th century, the purpose of this research was to clarify the structural features and degradation factors responsible for red stains on the shoe. Chemical spot tests, isolation and identification of fungi, pH measurements, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, and energy dispersive x-ray spectroscopy were used to achieve these aims. These measurement results corresponded to lime depilation, tanning with alum and vegetable tannins, and the possible use of CuSO₄ as a preservative of skin in leather-making process. Cladosporium sp. and Penicillium sp. were isolated from the shoe, but Trichophyton sp. was characterized as the main biodeterioration factor. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and pH measurements indicated hydrolysis and acidic degradation of the leather. The characteristics of the red stains were similar to those exhibited by red rot. Therefore, archaeological leathers tanned with alum and vegetable tannins may be exposed to acidic degradation like red rot decay.

Skin Clothing from the North, edited by Schmidt & Pedersen (2010)

Anne Lisbeth Schmidt and Karen Brynjolf Pedersen (ed.); Skin Clothing from the North, Abstracts from the seminar held at the National Museum of Denmark, November 26-27, 2009, Copenhagen, National Museum of Denmark (2010)

PDF

A brief description about the "Skin Clothing from the North" Project (2009-2012) can be read here.

“Pieles, zapateros, curtidurías...del Reino de Valencia (ss. XIV-XV)" per Aparici Martí (2012)

Aparici Martí, Joaquín, “Pieles, zapateros, curtidurías. El trabajo del cuero en la zona septentrional del Reino de Valencia (ss. XIV-XV)”, Millars: espai i història 35 (2012) pp. 49–68.

URL / PDF (Raco)

Resum:

Hemos tratado de reunir en este trabajo las referencias bibliográficas y los datos archivísticos dispersos existentes sobre la producción de cueros de los siglos XIV a XV en una geografía determinada como es el norte del Reino de Valencia, adjuntándose un mapa para una rápida visualización de los resultados obtenidos.

"...The Conservation of Over a Hundred Leather Shoes and Fragments" by Lafrance (2012)

Lafrance, Jessica; "Efficiency and Quality in a Batch Treatment: The Conservation of Over a Hundred Leather Shoes and Fragments", in K. Straetkvern and E. Williams, eds., Proceedings of the 11th ICOM Group on Wet Organic Archaeological Materials Conference: Greenville, 2010. ICOM-CC Working Group on Wet Organic Archaeological Materials (2012) pp. 611–621.

PDF

Abstract:

In late 2008 nearly 400 organic objects from the Old Songhees Reserve site in Victoria, British Columbia, arrived at the Canadian Conservation Institute for treatment. Over half of these objects were leather shoes and fragments covered with corrosion and heavily iron stained. The treatment of 112 of these objects is the topic of this paper. Treatment included individual mechanical cleaning of each shoe, followed by mass chloride removal, iron corrosion stain removal, impregnation with polyethelyne glycol, reshaping, freeze drying, and final consolidation and repair. Employing batch treatment methods for many of the conservation steps reduced time and material costs while careful planning, balanced decision making and monitoring meant that the quality of treatment was not reduced.

Material Traditions - Sewing Salmon, Smithsonian Institution's Arctic Studies Center at the Anchorage Museum (2012)

In December 2012, a five-day Material Traditions: Sewing Salmon Residency was held at the Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center at the Anchorage Museum in Alaska. During the residency Alaska Native fish skin artists Coral Chernoff (Alutiiq/Sugpiaq), Marlene Nielsen (Yup’ik), and Audrey Armstrong (Koyukon Athabascan) gave demonstrations and documented the processes involved in creating objects made of fish skin.

Along the way from fish to completed work, they shared their knowledge with students and visitors, and with curators and conservators who care for museum collections.
For information on the Sewing Salmon Residency please watch the Smithsonian Arctic Studies Center video post.

Postprints of the 10th Interim Meeting of the ICOM-CC Leather & Related Materials Working Group (2013)

Céline Bonnot-Diconne, Carole Dignard, Jutta Göpfrich (eds.), Postprints of the 10th Interim Meeting of the ICOM-CC Leather & Related Materials Working Group, Offenbach, 29-31 August 2012, ICOM-CC (2013)

URL

"Achega ao gremio de curtidores e zapateiros de Pontedeume nos séculos XVII-XVIII” por Costas Fernández e Macedo Cordal (2008)

Costas Fernández, Lucía; Macedo Cordal, Carola; “Achega ao gremio de curtidores e zapateiros de Pontedeume nos séculos XVII-XVIII”, Cátedra: revista eumesa de estudios 15 (2008) 289–380

PDF

Matériel des industries du cuir par Damourette (1869)

Damourette, J.-P.; Matériel des industries du cuir: tannerie, corroierie, mégisserie, marroquinerie, fabriques de courroies et de chaussures, Paris (1869)

URL (Google Books)

The boot and shoe trades in London and Paris in the long eighteenth century by Riello (2002)

Riello, Giorgio; The boot and shoe trades in London and Paris in the long eighteenth century, Doctoral thesis, University of London (2002)

URL

Abstract:

This thesis examines the evolution of pre-industrial shoemaking in London and Paris between the 1680s and the 1850s, treating this period as a whole. The relevance of these two cities is based on the international role they played in the clothing sector. Both cities not only dominated national manufacturing, but were able to influence the standard of production and European fashion. My research aims to construct a comparison of the two productive centres leading to a contrasting study of pre-conditions, strategies and influences in shoemaking. The starting point is a broad view of the 'regulative framework' of the sector: the importance of the raw material market (leather and textiles) and the role of guilds, their organisation and their control of the market. A chapter dedicated to consumption explores the relationship between the London shoe market and the influence of Parisian fashion. The interest in consumption is motivated also by the debate on what economic and social historians consider to be 'mass production' as the other face of 'mass consumption'. A chapter dedicated to retailing tries to link consumption to production. My research is then focused on a study of the organisation of production in the two cities. Different typologies of producers are related to different consumer choices showing how new consumer practices and retailing facilities re-shaped production. Finally the link between fashion changes and marketing techniques (for instance the use of sizes, brands or the distinction between right and left shoes) is a fruitful field of comparative research. The last two chapters of the thesis focus on the first half of the nineteenth century. Particular attention is dedicated to the importation into England of large quantities of women's shoes from France. The crisis that the London sector faced after 1815 explains a series of changes in the market and in the role played by the British metropolis in directing the sector. Very different appears to be the Parisian case, where provincial producers flourished only after the mechanisation of the sector. By the 1850s mechanisation meant the beginning of a new phase in the trade.

Sandals, shoes and other leatherwork from the Coptic Monastery Deir el-Bachit by Veldmeijer (2012)

Veldmeijer, A.J; Sandals, shoes and other leatherwork from the Coptic Monastery Deir el-Bachit: Analysis and Catalogue, Sidestone Press, Leiden (2012)
URL (Sidestone)

Abstract:

The Coptic monastery and cemetery Deir el-Bachit stands on the hilltop of Dra’ Abu el-Naga, the well-known necropolis in Qurna (West Bank, Luxor). It is the largest Coptic monastery complex preserved in Western Thebes and the first monastery that has been systematically investigated. The excavation of the monastery was started as a DFG-Project des Ägyptologischen Instituts der Ludwig-Maximilians-Universität München in close collaboration with the Deutsches Archäologisches Institut Abteilung Kairo.

Until the start of the investigations in 2001 with a survey, little research was done. After three seasons of preliminary research, full archaeological research was started in 2004. The leatherwork was studied in 2007, the present volume of which presents the results. The book consists of two parts: the analysis and a detailed catalogue, including colour images of all finds and, where necessary, line drawings. The finds are analysed within the framework of the excavation as well as within the frameworks of the Ancient Egyptian Leatherwork Project and the Ancient Egyptian Footwear Project (www.leatherandshoes.nl).

"Gilt leather/guadameci in Coimbra..." by Pereira (2012)

Pereira, Franklin; “Gilt leather/guadameci in Coimbra – comments on documents of the 12th and 16th centuries”, Boletim do Arquivo da Universidade de Coimbra 25 (2012) 169-180

PDF

Resumo:

Entre vários tipos de calçado, as posturas municipais de Coimbra, de 1145, referem botas em couro dourado/”gudemiciz”; parece ser esta a primeira referência aos guadamecis no reino de Portugal, e em particular numa cidade recentemente reconquistada ao domínio muçulmano. Em finais do século XVI, vários documentos da Universidade de Coimbra referem cobertas de parede, coberta de mesa e guardaportas, tudo fabricado por um guadamecileiro. Esta documentação leva-nos numa viagem às modas mudéjares e medievais onde o guadameci se encontrava.

Abstract:

Amidst different footwear, the taxes of Coimbra, dated from 1145, refer boots made in gilt leather/“gudemiciz”; it seems this is the first reference to gilt leather in the kingdom of Portugal, and in particular in a city recently conquered from the Muslims. In late 16th century, several documents of Coimbra University refer wall hangings, a table cover and large door frames made by a maker of gilt leather. These historic data take us into a journey of mudejar and medieval fashions where gilt leather was a part.

Conservazione ed il restauro di calzari pontificali con arabesco (Museo della Spiritualità) presso l’ISCR

Conservazione ed il restauro di calzari pontificali con arabesco, Museo della Spiritualità, Castel Sant'Elia, presso l'Istituto Superiore per la Conservazione ed il Restauro (ISCR), Roma

URL

Presentazione:

Questi sandali pontificali fanno parte del significativo insieme di 29 paramenti liturgici, recentemente restaurati presso l’ISCR, provenienti da Castel S.Elia (VT). Rispetto alle altre due paia di calzari appartenenti al medesimo complesso, ed anche in confronto con sandali pontificali esistenti in diverse collezioni europee, questi appaiono singolarmente ben conservati; di particolare pregio sono inoltre la qualità formale e la ricchezza decorativa. La necessità di restaurare questi oggetti ha offerto al Laboratorio manufatti in cuoio l’occasione per affrontare in modo approfondito le problematiche conservative delle calzature.

La fabbricazione è probabilmente avvenuta in una bottega artigiana del XIII secolo dell’Italia meridionale, e precisamente siciliana, attingendo alla tradizione manifatturiera islamica. Tuttavia non sembrano esservi elementi, allo stato attuale delle conoscenze, che consentano di confermare con certezza tale ipotesi. Sebbene nella letteratura esistente vi siano dei riferimenti alla manifattura delle pelli e del cuoio, essi rimandano quasi esclusivamente alla legatura, arte fiorente per diversi secoli a causa dell’importanza attribuita al libro sacro, il Corano. Si ritiene peraltro in linea generale che le tecniche di decorazione del cuoio si siano sviluppate principalmente nel Vicino Oriente, e che la loro diffusione in Occidente si avvenuta soltanto in un momento successivo.

Il sandalo pontificale costituisce una particolare tipologia di calzatura liturgica, utilizzata durante alcune cerimonie religiose, come la messa pontificale. A queste calzature cerimoniali fu attribuito il nome sandalia probabilmente nel IX o X secolo; esse divennero parte distintiva dell’abbigliamento liturgico del vescovo intorno al X secolo. Ne sono giunti fino a noi diversi esempi databili al XII-XIII secolo, accomunati da una foggia particolare che, secondo alcuni, rappresenterebbe un’evoluzione formale della tipologia di calzatura romana detta campagus. Questa era una scarpa aperta assicurata al piede mediante un sistema di lacci e indossata generalmente dall’aristocrazia o dagli ufficiali dell’esercito; tale tipologia si sarebbe modificata nel tempo divenendo una calzatura alta fino alla caviglia.

Si desidera ringraziare la restauratrice Federica Moretti che, oltre ad aver partecipato in fase di restauro alle operazioni di pulitura, consolidamento e correzione delle deformazioni, ha eseguito la documentazione grafica e molte delle immagini fotografiche che documentano l'intervento.

"Studies of Ancient Egyptian Footwear.Technological Aspects. Part XIV" by Veldmeijer (2011)

Veldmeijer, A. J.; “Studies of Ancient Egyptian Footwear. Technological Aspects. Part XIV. Leather Eared Sandals”, Palarch’s Journal of Archaeology of Egypt/Egyptology 8(5) (2011) 1-31

PDF

Abstract:

Leather Eared Sandals, i.e. sandals with pre-straps that are cut from the sole’s leather, are a well known category of sandals in ancient Egypt, mainly because the manufacturing is depicted in scenes that decorate tombs. Based on archaeological finds, we can recognise several subcategories and types. The present paper, as part of the Ancient Egyptian Footwear Project’s publication series, presents the technological details of this category of leather sandals. As usual in this series of papers, other topics are discussed in passing.

Shoes, ca.1700, Victoria & Albert Museum

Leather and leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York by Mould et al (2003)

Mould, Q.; Carlisle, I.; Cameron, E.; Leather and leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York, Vol.17: Small Finds, Fasc.16: Craft, Industry and Everyday Life, The Archaeology of York (2003)
PDF

From the summary:

This volume, the collaborative work of a number of authors, presents the surviving evidence for the manufacture and the use of leather artefacts at York during the Anglo-Scandinavian and medieval periods. It is based around the internationally important group of Anglo-Scandinavian leatherwork from 16-22 Coppergate, along with smaller amount od medieval material recovered from the site, supplemented by groups recovered from the Coppergate watching brief, excavations at 22 Piccadilly, and at the site of the Foundry and College of Vicars Choral at Bedern. Over 5000 items of leather dating from the 9th–15th century from Coppergate and other sites in the city are represented, some 550 of which have been fully catalogued in this fascicule. The close dating of the deposits belonging to the earlier years of occupation at Coppergate makes the 9th- to 11th-century material of particular significance.

Ancient Egyptian Leatherwork and Footwear Project website

The official website of the Ancient Egyptian Footwear Project (AEFP) and the Ancient Egyptian Leatherwork Project (AELP) is http://www.leatherandshoes.nl/.

The Projects are described in detail, including the objectives, methodology and researchers. It also includes a list of publications related to these Projects as well as images of (some of) the objects.

"First direct evidence of Chalcolithic footwear from the Near Eastern Highlands" by Pinhasi et al (2010)

Pinhasi, R.; Gasparian, B.; Areshian, G.; Zardaryan, D.; Smith, A.; Bar-Oz, G.; Higham, T.; "First direct evidence of Chalcolithic footwear from the Near Eastern Highlands", PLoS ONE 5(6) (2010) e10984.

doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0010984

Abstract:

In 2008, a well preserved and complete shoe was recovered at the base of a Chalcolithic pit in the cave of Areni-1, Armenia. Here, we discuss the chronology of this find, its archaeological context and its relevance to the study of the evolution of footwear. Two leather samples and one grass sample from the shoe were dated at the Oxford Radiocarbon Accelerator Unit (ORAU). A third leather sample was dated at the University of California-Irvine Accelerator Mass Spectrometry Facility (UCIAMS). The R_Combine function for the three leather samples provides a date range of 3627–3377 Cal BC (95.4% confidence interval) and the calibrated range for the straw is contemporaneous (3627–3377 Cal BC). The shoe was stuffed with loose, unfastened grass (Poaceae) without clear orientation which was more than likely used to maintain the shape of the shoe and/or prepare it for storage. The shoe is 24.5 cm long (European size 37), 7.6 to 10 cm wide, and was made from a single piece of leather that wrapped around the foot. It was worn and shaped to the wearer's right foot, particularly around the heel and hallux where the highest pressure is exerted in normal gait. The Chalcolithic shoe provides solid evidence for the use of footwear among Old World populations at least since the Chalcolithic. Other 4^th millennium discoveries of shoes (Italian and Swiss Alps), and sandals (Southern Israel) indicate that more than one type of footwear existed during the 4^th millennium BC, and that we should expect to discover more regional variations in the manufacturing and style of shoes where preservation conditions permit.

"Eastern and western influences on Hungarian footwear of the 13-17th centuries" by Kissné Bendefy (2009)

Kissné Bendefy, M.; "Eastern and Western influences on Hungarian footwear of the thirteenth-seventeenth centuries", in I. Éri (ed.), Conserving textiles: Studies in Honour of Ágnes Timár-Balázsy, ICCROM Conservation Studies 7 (2009) 87-96
PDF

From the text:

This paper summarizes some of the conclusions from our study of the type and technology of Hungarian footwear between the 13th and 17th centuries; this study has been undertaken for nearly ten years by the author and Judit Bakay-Perjés. Our research has been based on finds from archaeological excavations of Hungarian sites and on objects that were taken into historic collections; most of the finds are complete shoes and boots, and are primarily men's footwear.

Pair of chopines, c.1600, Victoria & Albert Museum