Lacroix, P.; Duchesne, A.; Seré, F.; Histoire de la chaussure depuis l'antiquité la plus reculée jusq'à nos jours: suivie de l'histoire sérieuse et drolatique des cordonniers, Delahays Libraire-Éditeur, Paris (1862)
24/03/2009
"La contribution de l'archéobiologie à l'étude de l'artisanat romain" par Deschler-Erb (2005)
Deschler-Erb, S.; "La contribution de l'archéobiologie à l'étude de l'artisanat romain", in Michel Polfer (éd.), Artisanat et économie romaine: Italie et provinces occidentales de l'Empire. Actes du 3ème colloque international d'Erpeldange (Luxembourg) sur l'artisanat romain , 14-16 Octobre 2004, Monographies instrumentum 32, Montagnac (2005) 31-38
PDF
Introdution:
L’archéologie romaine regroupe différentes disciplines «classiques» comme la céramologie, la numismatique ou l’architecture. L’archéobiologie, qui, en l’absence de sources littéraires, a été introduite dès le 19ème siècle pour l’étude des périodes préhistoriques, commence seulement à être intégrée à l’archéologie romaine comme une discipline à part entière. Le but de cet exposé est de montrer le potentiel du travail interdisciplinaire pour l’étude de l’artisanat romain.
Introdution:
L’archéologie romaine regroupe différentes disciplines «classiques» comme la céramologie, la numismatique ou l’architecture. L’archéobiologie, qui, en l’absence de sources littéraires, a été introduite dès le 19ème siècle pour l’étude des périodes préhistoriques, commence seulement à être intégrée à l’archéologie romaine comme une discipline à part entière. Le but de cet exposé est de montrer le potentiel du travail interdisciplinaire pour l’étude de l’artisanat romain.
L’archéobiologie regroupe deux disciplines : l’archéozoologie et l’archéobotanique. Aujourd’hui encore, il y a relativement beaucoup d’archéologues qui pensent que ces deux disciplines ne donnent que des informations sur la nourriture. Cette vision est très réductrice. En réalité, l’archéozoologie nous donne des informations très variées sur l’importance des animaux pour les sociétés anciennes, que ce soit comme puissance de travail, comme animal de compagnie, comme fournisseur de matières premières ou encore comme valeur symbolique. Dans les sociétés préindustrielles, l’animal jouait donc un rôle multiple. Fournir de la nourriture n’était qu’un seul de ces rôles. Il en va de même pour l’archéobotanique : les plantes peuvent être employées aussi bien comme remèdes que comme combustible. Elles avaient également une valeur symbolique. On utilisait le bois dans la construction des maisons et pour fabriquer différents objets. Les plantes permettaient encore de confectionner des textiles. Bref, l’archéobiologie s’occupe de toutes les matières organiques. Elle enrichit notre connaissance de la vie quotidienne antique en nous donnant des informations multiples, complémentaires des méthodes «classiques».
Prenons par exemple la tannerie, un artisanat organique typique.17/03/2009
"NMR and EPR as analytical tools to investigate...archaeological leathers" by Bardet et al (2009)
Bardet, M.; Gerbaud, G.; Le Pape, L.; Hediger, S.; Trân, Q.-K.; Boumill, N.; "Nuclear Magnetic Resonance and Electron Paramagnetic Resonance as analytical tools to investigate structural features of archaeological leathers", Analytical Chemistry 81 (4) (2009) 1505-1511
DOI:10.1021/ac802052a (restricted access) / PDF
Abstract:
Archaeological waterlogged leathers dated from the 13th to 17th century have been analyzed using carbon-13 high-resolution solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR). The NMR and EPR spectra have been compared to modern vegetable-tanned leathers and crude hide. Both techniques allowed us to fully characterize the samples and better understand the changes occurring during aging in water environment. The main features of the archaeological leathers are the high contents in iron and the absence of residual vegetable tannins. Traces of lubricants could not be detected either. The accumulation of iron oxides may have played a role in the conservation of the archaeological objects and explain the surprising good conservation state of the leather samples as was observed in the NMR spectra. The absence of tannins and lubricants in the studied archaeological samples is also discussed. It may be a consequence of aging in water-rich environment. The analysis strategy described in this paper can be systematically applied to characterize archaeological or historical leather samples.
DOI:10.1021/ac802052a (restricted access) / PDF
Abstract:
Archaeological waterlogged leathers dated from the 13th to 17th century have been analyzed using carbon-13 high-resolution solid-state nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR). The NMR and EPR spectra have been compared to modern vegetable-tanned leathers and crude hide. Both techniques allowed us to fully characterize the samples and better understand the changes occurring during aging in water environment. The main features of the archaeological leathers are the high contents in iron and the absence of residual vegetable tannins. Traces of lubricants could not be detected either. The accumulation of iron oxides may have played a role in the conservation of the archaeological objects and explain the surprising good conservation state of the leather samples as was observed in the NMR spectra. The absence of tannins and lubricants in the studied archaeological samples is also discussed. It may be a consequence of aging in water-rich environment. The analysis strategy described in this paper can be systematically applied to characterize archaeological or historical leather samples.
12/03/2009
"Handling and care of dry bird and mammal specimens" by Ramotnik (2006)
Ramotnik, C. A.; "Handling and care of dry bird and mammal specimens", Conserve O Gram 11/09, National Park Service (2006)
PDF
Introduction:
Natural history specimens represent the biological legacy of our predecessors. They are the tools used by researchers to assess how species are distributed in geographical and ecological time and space. How we care for these collections today will directly affect their significance and usefulness in the future. Some bird and mammal specimens in North American collections are over two hundred years old. All specimens, new or old, share common preservation and maintenance needs. The handling and care of dry bird and mammal skins, skeletons, and parts is highlighted in this Conserve O Gram.
Natural history specimens represent the biological legacy of our predecessors. They are the tools used by researchers to assess how species are distributed in geographical and ecological time and space. How we care for these collections today will directly affect their significance and usefulness in the future. Some bird and mammal specimens in North American collections are over two hundred years old. All specimens, new or old, share common preservation and maintenance needs. The handling and care of dry bird and mammal skins, skeletons, and parts is highlighted in this Conserve O Gram.
05/03/2009
Methods in the art of taxidermy by Davie (1900)
From the Preface:
In April 1882, my artist delivered to me the first drawings intended for this work. As specimens were procured from time to time, from which to make illustrations of the various procedures in the skinning and mounting of animals, the progress was continued until the present volume is the consummation of our efforts. We have likewise incorporated some reproductions from photographs of actual work by American taxidermists. All scientific technicalities which could possibly be avoided have been omitted in the text. Our aim has been to produce a work amply illustrating the various modes of procedure in the art of taxidermy, intended especially to instruct the beginner. Those who are experienced in the art may also be aided by some new and practical methods which we have included within these pages.
We have not followed any established order of zoological classification in the arrangement of the chapters, but have taken up the practical lessons on birds first, because they usually give the most satisfactory results to the beginner. The mammals, which are more difficult, come next in order and, lastly, the complicated preparations of crustaceans, fishes, reptiles, etc.
In April 1882, my artist delivered to me the first drawings intended for this work. As specimens were procured from time to time, from which to make illustrations of the various procedures in the skinning and mounting of animals, the progress was continued until the present volume is the consummation of our efforts. We have likewise incorporated some reproductions from photographs of actual work by American taxidermists. All scientific technicalities which could possibly be avoided have been omitted in the text. Our aim has been to produce a work amply illustrating the various modes of procedure in the art of taxidermy, intended especially to instruct the beginner. Those who are experienced in the art may also be aided by some new and practical methods which we have included within these pages.
We have not followed any established order of zoological classification in the arrangement of the chapters, but have taken up the practical lessons on birds first, because they usually give the most satisfactory results to the beginner. The mammals, which are more difficult, come next in order and, lastly, the complicated preparations of crustaceans, fishes, reptiles, etc.
28/02/2009
The British Library Database of Bookbindings online
The British Library - Database of Bookbindings
This database is a finding aid to the British Library's bookbinding collections. It includes information and images for selected items from the Library's rich collection of fine bindings of books printed in western Europe from the fifteenth century to date. There is also a selection from the valuable bookbindings collections of the Library's partner, the National Library of the Netherlands. The database is a work in progress and its scope will be widened as resources allow.
(Text from the website database)
21/02/2009
American Embossed Leather Bindings, 1825-1855 by Wolf (1990)
Wolf, E.; From Gothic Windows to Peacocks: American Embossed Leather Bindings, 1825-1855, The Library Company of Philadelphia, Philadelphia (1990)
16/02/2009
Leather for libraries by Hulme et al (1905)
Hulme, E. W.; Parker, J.; Seymour-Jones, A.; Davenport, C.; Williamson, F.J.; Leather for libraries, Published for the Sound Leather Committee of Library Association by The Library Supply Co., London (1905)
URL (Internet Archive) Table of contents:
Chapter I:
"History of Sumach Tanning in England, Degradation of the Manufacture of Leather, and History of the Reform Movement". By E. W. Hulme
Chapter II:
"The Causes of Decay in Bookbinding Leathers". By J. G. Parker
Chapter III:
"Provenance, Characteristics, and Values of Modern Bookbinding Leathers". By A. Seymour -Jones
Chapter IV:
"The Repairing and Binding of Books for Public Libraries". By C. Davenport
Chapter V:
"Specification for the Fittings of a Small Bindery". By F. J. Williamson
10/02/2009
The manufacture of leather, Skin Deep (1996-2000)
As várias etapas do curtume a vegetal de uma pele animal estão descritas em vários números da newsletter bianual Skin Deep, da Hewit & Sons, publicados entre 1996 e 2000:
Vol.1, 1996:
"The manufacture of leather: part 1" by David Lanning (htm, pdf)
Vol.2, 1996
"The manufacture of leather: part 2" by David Lanning (htm, pdf)
Vol.3, 1997
"The manufacture of leather: part 3" by William McLean (htm, pdf)
Vol.4, 1997
"The manufacture of leather: part 4" by William McLean (htm, pdf)
Vol.5, 1998
"The manufacture of leather: part 5" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
Vol.6, 1998
"The manufacture of leather: part 6" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
Vol.7, 1999
"The manufacture of leather: part 7" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
Vol.8, 1999
"The manufacture of leather: part 8" by Thomas McNeill (htm, pdf)
Vol.9, 2000
"The manufacture of leather: part 9" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
Vol.10, 2000
"The manufacture of leather: part 10" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
E sobre a curtimenta mineral com sais de alumínio:
Vol.11, 2001
"Aluminium tannages" by Roger Barlee (htm, pdf)
02/02/2009
Descriptions des arts et métiers du cuir (1775)
Bertrand, J.-E. (ed.); Descriptions des arts et métiers: Contenant l'art du tanneur, du chamoiseur, du mégissier, du corroyeur, du parcheminier, de l'hongroyeur, du maroquinier, de travailler les cuirs dorés & argentés, du cordonnier, du paumier-raquetier & de la paume, Tome III, Nouvelle Edition, Société Typographique, Neuchâtel (1775)
URL (Google Books)
Para além da digitalização do Google existe também a do Conservatoire numérique des Arts et Métiers (CNAM) disponível em http://cnum.cnam.fr/fSYN/4KY58.3.html
28/01/2009
20/01/2009
Leathercraft by Johnson & Newkirk (1945)
Johnson, W. H.; Newkirk, L.V.; The hobbycraf series: leathercraft, The Webb Publishing Company, Saint Paul Minnesota (1945)
InternetArchive
InternetArchive
Table of contents:
I. The materials you use
II. Leatherworking tools and accessories
III. Working with leather
IV. Things to make
15/01/2009
09/01/2009
Making a saddle (1978)
Making a saddle, Council for Small Industries in Rural Areas, London (1978)
This book sets out to show in simple language and photographic illustration, methods employed in making a saddle - methods which apart from the use of some synthetic materials have remained unchanged for generations.
16/12/2008
"Analysis of waterlogged leather using FTIR" by Godfrey and Richardson (1990)
Godfrey, I. M.; Richardson, G. W.; "Analysis of waterlogged leather using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy - a preliminary study", AICCM Bulletin 16(3) (1990) 73-84
URL / PDF
URL / PDF
Abstract:
Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy has been used to analyse waterlogged, degraded leather obtained from Western Australian marine archaeological sites. This article presents the results of investigations into the application of this technique as a means of determining the degree of degradation, effects of standard conservation treatments, and nature and efficiency of impregnations.
12/12/2008
Furskin Identification Program Website
Furskin Identification Program
http://www.furskin.cz/
FURSKIN is the first program created for fur skin identification which has allowed a very quick and exact comparison of structural patterns and eliminates much of the tedious work associated with the use of the Atlas book.
In 2006, fur skin micro-structural data was transferred into the Internet version of FURSKIN (http://www.furskin.cz/). In this website, the Furskin Identification program is described for rapid analysis and identification of fur skin species. The identification is based on a wide collection of fur skins micro-morphology and their microscopic patterns.
08/12/2008
"The preservation of Inuit clothing..." by Carlsen et al (1995)
Carlsen, L.; Feldthus, A.; Schmidt, A. L.; "The preservation of Inuit clothing collected during the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921-24) ", Arctic 48(4) (1995) 333-337
URL / PDF
Abstract:
Preparation procedures as well as ordinary use apparently cause changes in the appearance of Inuit skin clothing. These changes may alter the inherent properties of skin, such as fatty acid composition and shrinkage temperature. The present paper describes studies of fatty acid distribution and shrinkage temperature in a series of items of Inuit origin collected during the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921-24). The skins used for the clothing originate from ringed seal (Phoca hispida) and caribou (Rangifer tarandus). For comparison, fresh prepared skins were studied, as were samples of sealskins found in the mummy burial ground in Qilakitsoq, Greenland. It appeared that ordinary use changed the fatty acid distribution to some extent, as well as the shrinkage temperature, indicating slow deterioration. However, more significant deterioration was observed for samples exposed for longer periods to daylight as, for example, when placed on exhibition. The effect of light was verified by studying samples deliberately exposed to full daylight for ca. 6 months. In contrast to these samples, the 500-year-old skins appeared, on the basis of fatty acid distribution and shrinkage temperature, to be in good condition, possibly because of the lack of ordinary use in combination with low storage temperatures.
Résumé:
Les méthodes de préparation ainsi que l'utilisation normale provoquent, semble-t-il, des changements dans l'aspect des vêtements de peau inuit. Ces changements peuvent modifier les propriétés inhérentes de la peau, telles que la répartition des acides gras et la contractilité thermique. Cet article décrit les études portant sur la répartition des acides gras et la contractilité thermique dans une série d'objets d'origine inuit recueillis au cours de la cinquième expédition de Thulé (1921-24). Les peaux servant à l'habillement viennent du phoque annelé (Phoca hispida) et du caribou (Rangifer tarandus). À des fins de comparaison, on a étudié des peaux récemment préparées, ainsi que des échantillons de peaux de phoque trouvées dans le cimetière de momies de Qilakitsoq, au Groenland. Il semble que l'utilisation normale ait changé, dans une certaine mesure, la répartition des acides gras ainsi que la contractilité thermique, indiquant une détérioration lente. On a toutefois observé une détérioration plus importante pour des échantillons exposés durant de plus longues périodes à la lumière naturelle comme, par exemple, lorsqu'ils sont mis en exposition. On a vérifié l'effet de la lumière en étudiant des échantillons délibérément exposés au grand jour pendant environ six mois. Par contraste avec ces échantillons, les peaux de 500 ans semblaient, si l'on se fiait à la répartition des acides gras et à la contractilité thermique, en bon état, et ce, en raison peut-être du manque d'utilisation courante combiné à un entreposage à basse température.
URL / PDF
Abstract:
Preparation procedures as well as ordinary use apparently cause changes in the appearance of Inuit skin clothing. These changes may alter the inherent properties of skin, such as fatty acid composition and shrinkage temperature. The present paper describes studies of fatty acid distribution and shrinkage temperature in a series of items of Inuit origin collected during the Fifth Thule Expedition (1921-24). The skins used for the clothing originate from ringed seal (Phoca hispida) and caribou (Rangifer tarandus). For comparison, fresh prepared skins were studied, as were samples of sealskins found in the mummy burial ground in Qilakitsoq, Greenland. It appeared that ordinary use changed the fatty acid distribution to some extent, as well as the shrinkage temperature, indicating slow deterioration. However, more significant deterioration was observed for samples exposed for longer periods to daylight as, for example, when placed on exhibition. The effect of light was verified by studying samples deliberately exposed to full daylight for ca. 6 months. In contrast to these samples, the 500-year-old skins appeared, on the basis of fatty acid distribution and shrinkage temperature, to be in good condition, possibly because of the lack of ordinary use in combination with low storage temperatures.
Résumé:
Les méthodes de préparation ainsi que l'utilisation normale provoquent, semble-t-il, des changements dans l'aspect des vêtements de peau inuit. Ces changements peuvent modifier les propriétés inhérentes de la peau, telles que la répartition des acides gras et la contractilité thermique. Cet article décrit les études portant sur la répartition des acides gras et la contractilité thermique dans une série d'objets d'origine inuit recueillis au cours de la cinquième expédition de Thulé (1921-24). Les peaux servant à l'habillement viennent du phoque annelé (Phoca hispida) et du caribou (Rangifer tarandus). À des fins de comparaison, on a étudié des peaux récemment préparées, ainsi que des échantillons de peaux de phoque trouvées dans le cimetière de momies de Qilakitsoq, au Groenland. Il semble que l'utilisation normale ait changé, dans une certaine mesure, la répartition des acides gras ainsi que la contractilité thermique, indiquant une détérioration lente. On a toutefois observé une détérioration plus importante pour des échantillons exposés durant de plus longues périodes à la lumière naturelle comme, par exemple, lorsqu'ils sont mis en exposition. On a vérifié l'effet de la lumière en étudiant des échantillons délibérément exposés au grand jour pendant environ six mois. Par contraste avec ces échantillons, les peaux de 500 ans semblaient, si l'on se fiait à la répartition des acides gras et à la contractilité thermique, en bon état, et ce, en raison peut-être du manque d'utilisation courante combiné à un entreposage à basse température.
01/12/2008
"... understanding of archaeological hide-working processes" by Beyries and Rots (2005)
Beyries, S.; Rots, V.; "The contribution of ethno-archaeological macro- and microscopic wear traces to the understanding of archaeological hide-working processes", in L. Longo and N. Skakun (eds.), "Prehistoric Technology” 40 years later: Functional Studies and the Russian Legacy (2005) 21-28
Summary
Ethno-archaeological data allow a better understanding of the hide-working process including parameters such as haft morphology, tool position and angle of insertion, tool fixation, thickness of the hide worked, the position of the hide/hide-worker, the precision of the gesture, etc. While these kinds of data are difficult to infer for archaeological tools when based on an experimental reference, we believe that it is possible if the analysis is based on a close examination of the wear traces produced in ethno-archaeological conditions. Based on different ethno-archaeological case studies, we propose criteria that – when applied in functional analyses of archaeological tools – allow a more complete understanding of the parameters involved in the archaeological hide-working process. It is concluded that this research demonstrates the importance of ethno-archaeology as a research tool in functional studies.
Résumé
Certaines données ethno-archéologiques peuvent contribuer à une meilleure compréhension du processus du travail des peaux, par exemple la morphologie du manche de l’outil, la position et l’angle de travail de l’outil, l’épaisseur de la peau, la position de la peau / l’artisan, la précision du geste, etc. En se fondant exclusivement sur des données expérimentales certaines de ces données sont difficilement accessibles. Cependant, les auteurs suggèrent qu’en s’appuyant sur une analyse détaillée des traces produites dans des conditions ethno-archéologiques les interprétations archéologiques peuvent être beaucoup plus précise. Cette recherche démontre l'importance de l'ethno-archéologie comme outil de recherche dans des études fonctionnelles.
Certaines données ethno-archéologiques peuvent contribuer à une meilleure compréhension du processus du travail des peaux, par exemple la morphologie du manche de l’outil, la position et l’angle de travail de l’outil, l’épaisseur de la peau, la position de la peau / l’artisan, la précision du geste, etc. En se fondant exclusivement sur des données expérimentales certaines de ces données sont difficilement accessibles. Cependant, les auteurs suggèrent qu’en s’appuyant sur une analyse détaillée des traces produites dans des conditions ethno-archéologiques les interprétations archéologiques peuvent être beaucoup plus précise. Cette recherche démontre l'importance de l'ethno-archéologie comme outil de recherche dans des études fonctionnelles.
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