Shoes, ca.1700, Victoria & Albert Museum

"Biodeterioration of archeological leather" by Strzelczyk et al (1997)

Strzelczyk, A. B.; Bannach, L.; Kurowska, A.; “Biodeterioration of archeological leather”, International Biodeterioration and Biodegradation 39(4) (1997) 301-309(9)

doi:10.1016/S0964-8305(97)00026-7 (restricted access) / PDF

Abstract:

Leather objects are frequently found in archaeological excavation. Often this material is contaminated with mineral salts which crystallize on the surface upon excavation. Unconserved finds are easily attacked by microorganisms. The microflora growing on untreated as well as conserved leather artifacts were studied. Conservation treatments investigated include: mechanical cleaning, wet cleaning, wet cleaning in Canpac solution, chemical cleaning in orthophosphoric acid, sumach retanning, Al₂(SO₄)₃ tawed, van Soest dressing, and silicone liquor.

Hat box, 1890-1899, Victoria & Albert Museum

Die Kollagenmatrix archäologischer Funde im Vergleich zu künstlich gealterten Ledermustern historischer Gerbverfahren von Bernhard Trommer (2004)

Bernhard Trommer, Die Kollagenmatrix archäologischer Funde im Vergleich zu künstlich gealterten Ledermustern historischer Gerbverfahren, PhD Dissertation, Fakultät für Werkstoffwissenschaft und Werkstofftechnologie der Technischen Universität Bergakademie Freiberg (2004)
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Abstract:

Ausgangspunkt der wissenschaftlichen Arbeit bildet eine Recherche historischer Leder- und Gerbarten. Die Quellen wurden auf ihren technologischen Wahrheitsgehalt überprüft. Dazu wurden über 30 Rezepturen historischer Gerbarten entwickelt und halbtechnisch erprobt. Im Ergebnis entstanden Referenzleder, welche analysiert und experimentell auf ihr Alterungs- und Abbauverhalten untersucht wurden. Die klassischen Methoden der Lederprüfung, die Elektronenstrahlmikroskopie (SEM/ EDX), die UV- und FT-IR-Spektroskopie, RP-HPLC- sowie die DSC-Analyse wurden für die Untersuchung der Referenzleder benutzt und weiterentwickelt. Die Erkenntnisse aus Recherche, technologischer Rekonstruktion, Simulation und Analyse wurden an archäologischen Lederfunden evaluiert. Das Alter der untersuchten Funde umfaßt eine Zeitspanne von 100 bis 3.300 Jahren. Bei der Wahl der Objekte wurde auf ein unterschiedliches Fundortmilieu Wert gelegt, um die Auswirkungen typischer Standortbedingungen auf die Ledermatrix zu erforschen. 

Coat made from salmon skin, ca.1900, Victoria & Albert Museum

"Some Notes on the Chemical Technology in an 11th Century Arabic Work on Bookbinding" by Levey et al (1956)

Levey, M.; Krek, M.; Haddad, H.; "Some Notes on the Chemical Technology in an Eleventh Century Arabic Work on Bookbinding", Isis 47 (1956) 239–243
JSTOR (restricted access)

"Appendix: Notes on the restoration of the Behaim shields" by Faltermeier & Meyer (1995)

Faltermeier, Christel; Meyer, Rudolf; "Appendix: Notes on the Restoration of the Behaim Shields", Metropolitan Museum Journal 30 (1995) 53-60
JSTOR (restricted access) | PDF

"The seven shields of Behaim: new evidence" by Nickel (1995)

Nickel, Helmut; "The Seven Shields of Behaim: New Evidence", Metropolitan Museum Journal 30 (1995) 29-51
JSTOR (restricted access)| PDF

Frame drum, 19th century, The Met Museum of Art

"Treatment and technical study of a Lakota beaded hide" by Nicole Ledoux (2010)

Nicole Ledoux, "Treatment and Technical Study of a Lakota Beaded Hide", ANAGPIC 2010 Annual Student Conference, Queen's University at Kingston Art Conservation Department (2010)
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Abstract:

This paper discusses the conservation and technical study of a Lakota (est.) beaded hide object in very poor condition. The piece, whose original function is not known, was reported as collected in the late 19th or early 20th century by John Anderson, a photographer living on the Rosebud reservation in South Dakota. It was passed down through family lines until it was recently donated to the UCLA/Getty conservation program. At some point in its history, the piece suffered liquid damage that has drastically altered more than half of the hide area, causing darkening, embrittlement, and fragmentation, as well as damage to the associated beadwork, including localized staining resulting in part from bead corrosion. In order to better understand these alterations and their implications for conservation treatment, a technical study has been undertaken that includes both morphological characterization and materials analysis of the hide and tannins. Continued work has included identification of bead composition and characterization of the various alteration products, as well as consultation with tribal and museum experts about original function and appropriate loss compensation. This object provides an interesting case study for investigating the deterioration of hide and the approach taken in treating such significantly altered material.

"Cuoi dipinti a Venezia. La carità." di Vanni Tiozzo (2003)

Vanni Tiozzo; "Cuoi dipinti a Venezia. La carità.", Dipartimento Tecniche e Restauro dell’Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia, Venezia (2003) 51-54
URL

Dalla introduzione:

I cuoi dipinti della Carità giacevano dimenticati in un cassone dipinto nella Direzione della Accademia di Belle Arti di Venezia. Il cambio della Direzione, quando successe il prof. Riccardo Rabagliati al prof. Antonio Toniato, impose il riordino dell’ufficio e l’attenzione della dott.ssa Rita Zanchi fece rinvenire un rullo rabberciato di colore marrone dal quale si scorgeva la parte interna dipinta. La gentile signora ne parlò con l’allora decano, il prof. Mario Guadagnino, il quale, ne aveva solo un vago ricordo e propose al Direttore di affidarli al corso di restauro affinché potessero venire meglio conservati; da questo aneddoto inizia il percorso di cui ora vi diamo conto. 

Leather and leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York by Mould et al (2003)

Mould, Q.; Carlisle, I.; Cameron, E.; Leather and leatherworking in Anglo-Scandinavian and Medieval York, Vol.17: Small Finds, Fasc.16: Craft, Industry and Everyday Life, The Archaeology of York (2003)
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From the summary:

This volume, the collaborative work of a number of authors, presents the surviving evidence for the manufacture and the use of leather artefacts at York during the Anglo-Scandinavian and medieval periods. It is based around the internationally important group of Anglo-Scandinavian leatherwork from 16-22 Coppergate, along with smaller amount od medieval material recovered from the site, supplemented by groups recovered from the Coppergate watching brief, excavations at 22 Piccadilly, and at the site of the Foundry and College of Vicars Choral at Bedern. Over 5000 items of leather dating from the 9th–15th century from Coppergate and other sites in the city are represented, some 550 of which have been fully catalogued in this fascicule. The close dating of the deposits belonging to the earlier years of occupation at Coppergate makes the 9th- to 11th-century material of particular significance.

"The potential for extraction and exploitation of DNA from parchment" by Bower et al (2010)

Bower, Mim A.; Campana, Michael G.; Checkley-Scott, Caroline; Knight, Barry ; Howe, Christopher J.; "The potential for extraction and exploitation of DNA from parchment: a review of the opportunities and hurdles", Journal of the Institute of Conservation 33(1) (2010) 1-11

DOI: 10.1080/19455220903509937 (restricted access)

Abstract:

The isolation and analysis of DNA from parchment has the potential to provide a great deal of information about the material that was difficult or impossible to obtain before. We review progress in recovering DNA from other ancient and historic materials, and the limited amount of work done so far with parchment and other manuscript material. We discuss the likelihood of being able to recover well preserved DNA from parchment, and the questions that could in principle be addressed. Finally, we comment on the technical advances needed for the field to develop significantly and reliably, and implications for conservators.

Leather panel, ca.1570-90, The Met Museum of Art

"Leather Panel (Allegory of Music) [Northern France] (2006.71)". In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/2006.71 (October 2006)

OPERA Project Website

OPERA Old Parchment: Evaluation, Restoration and Analysis
http://www.opera-parchment.it/

Coordinator: Department of Chemistry IFM, University of Turin, Italy
Co-coordinator: School of Conservation, Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts, Copenhagen, Denmark

OPERA Project has four institutional partners, four institutional collaborators and ten end-users (archives and museums) from Italy, Denmark, United Kingdom and Romania.

OPERA is using IDAP damage assessment techniques to classify the states of preservation of some collections of historical parchments of various origins. Damage assessment and diagnosis, monitoring and modelling of the environmental impact on parchment demand a detailed knowledge of the mechanisms and paths of deterioration at all levels of its structure. Therefore, deeper characterisation of damage are being achieved by techniques targeting the properties of collagen within parchments at molecular (UV-Vis, FTIR, NIR, GC, HPLC, MS), nanoscopic (AFM, NMR, XRD) and mesoscopic (TA/DTA, TG/DTG, DSC, DMTA, SEM) levels.

Ancient Egyptian Leatherwork and Footwear Project website

The official website of the Ancient Egyptian Footwear Project (AEFP) and the Ancient Egyptian Leatherwork Project (AELP) is http://www.leatherandshoes.nl/.

The Projects are described in detail, including the objectives, methodology and researchers. It also includes a list of publications related to these Projects as well as images of (some of) the objects.

"Identification of animal skin of historical parchments by PCR-based methods" by Pangallo et al (2010)

Pangallo, D.; Chovanova, K.; Makova, A.; "Identification of animal skin of historical parchments by PCR-based methods", Journal of Archaeological Science 37(6) (2010) 1202-1206
doi:10.1016/j.jas.2009.12.018 (restricted acess)

Abstract:

This study deals with establishing of a PCR-based strategy with the aim to recognize the animal origin of different historical parchments. This is one of relatively rare studies on the analysis of ancient DNA from parchments. Robustness of the PCR technology is demonstrated by successful identification of the animal species using only a small amount of DNA isolated from 12 parchment samples. Ten PCR-based assays specific for the detection of different animal species (Bos taurus, Ovis aries, Capra hircus, Sus scrofa, Oryctolagus domestica, Cervus elaphus, Capreolus capreolus, Dama dama) and two PCR assays utilizing universal primers were evaluated and optimized with the aim to find a rapid parchment identification method, which would be more reliable than the classical microscopic examination. The optimized PCR methods produced satisfactory results. Out of 12 investigated parchments, 9 items were unambiguously identified, DNA from 2 samples could not be amplified with any of the species-specific PCR assays, and only one parchment produced controversial results. The species-specific PCR results were confirmed by direct sequencing and PCR cloning with consequent sequencing. Our approach, including isolation of parchment DNA by chaotropic solid-phase extraction, optimization of the PCR programs and high-stringency annealing temperatures, demonstrated to be effective, easy and reliable for the analysis of historical parchment DNA. We consider this PCR-based strategy potentially useful also for investigation of other types of animal items conserved in museums, galleries or libraries.

"Nature, production and regulation in eighteenth-century Britain and France: the case of the leather industry" by Riello (2008)

Riello, G.; “Nature, production and regulation in eighteenth-century Britain and France: the case of the leather industry”, Historical research 81 (211) (2008) 75-99

DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2281.2007.00413.x (restricted access) / PDF

Abstract:

Leather was, in the pre-industrial economy, a scarce material used in the production of a wide range of goods. The supply of leather was influenced by the national cattle asset and its slaughtering rate. The difficulty in increasing leather production to meet the demands of a 'consumer revolution' was the subject of theoretical debates and practical intervention. The state controlled and organized the leather market through fiscal and commercial policies. This article offers a comparative analysis of the French and the British leather markets in the eighteenth century. In France, the state assumed an organizational function in the creation of a national leather market. In Britain, by contrast, the state simply regulated an existing market. These different political interventions influenced the dynamics of development of leather production and the leather trades in the two countries. While France suffered from an endemic absence of leather, Britain was able to satisfy its increasing demand efficiently.

Powder flask, Italy, c.1560, Victoria & Albert Museum

Man made mobile: Early saddles of Western North America by Ahlborn (1980)

Ahlborn, Richard E.; Man made mobile: Early saddles of Western North America, Smithsonian Studies in History and Technology 39, Smithsonian Institution Press, Washington (1980)

PDF

Abstract:

This study of early forms of saddles in Western North America features four distinct discussions: major horizons (wide-spread appearances of historical prototypes) within the sixteenth through nineteenth centuries; Mexican origins of form and associated activities; development among U.S. riders before the professional cowboy era (post-Civil War); and development of equestrian equipment among the Plains Indians collateral to the emergence of the U.S. western stock saddle. The four essays are followed by an illustrated catalogue of the equestrian artifacts drawn from the Smithsonian Institution’s holdings and from other important collections for an exhibition at the Renwick Gallery, 1974-1976. There is also a glossary of Spanish and English equestrian terms used in this study. It is projected that this presentation of early saddle forms with many well-documented illustrations and descriptions will provide both a reference source and also the inspiration for additional typological and social studies.